HANK GASKELL, PRO SURFER
People talk about yoga and the patterns of our breath being like the waves in the ocean.
I think that’s right.
I remember the first contest I ever did on Oahu was in Haleiwa. My dad and I camped on the beach. I was seven years old. My dad wanted me to listen to the rhythm of the ocean so that I’d be in rhythm with the waves for the following day of competition. I attribute the success I had there, at least partially, to that time my dad and I took to slowing down and tuning my body in with the ocean.